Blog Archives - Slang's Anti-Singularity

Winding down

10/26/2017

All good things must come to an end, and this trip is painfully approaching its inevitable conclusion. Yesterday was my last big adventure on land, and today in the water.
Yesterday was a trek across the island. Ostensibly, there was a trail, but in all practicality, it was a 6+ hour bushwhack. By the time I finished, the 11 miles felt like an ultra marathon. I was either ducking under a branch or three, or crawling over a deadfall, or winding my way around another. And all the way, I was a hunted man.

some men are chick magnets. Some may even be money magnets. I, mis amigos, am a leech magnet. Glamorous, I know. Ladies, calm yourselves.

And not just on my feet. On my stomach, and less public places, too. Mosquitoes, I don't mind. Leeches on my balls? Yeah, no thanks. TMI? You don't know TMI until you see the little fuckers attached.
Otherwise, I saw a bunch of nature. All cool.

Ho-hum Day

10/22/2017

After spending half the night drinking Chang beer in a beach bar during a deluge with an Australian couple solving the world's problems, nothing exciting to report for today.

Went for a short and shitty road run early to avoid the traffic and heat. The roads aren't quite the same as at home, and neither are the views along the way. I'm horribly out of shape, but whatever. Maybe the motivation will return; maybe not.

A bit of breakfast, then hopped in a kayak to investigate the mangrove estuary to the ocean.
I think I'll go the other direction tomorrow.
Damn I look old and decrepit. Glad I don't have any mirrors!

Then it was beach time. Had to share it with the Beach King.
(Side note about dogs. They are ubiquitous and in reasonably good health. The ones in Bangkok all look like small akitas, in Chiang Mai, they look like narrow-muzzled, small labs, and in Koh Chang, they nearly all have the ridgeback fur of a Rhodesian.
In all locations, there exists definite local hierarchies, and I noticed cooperative grooming behavior in the Chiang Mai cohort. I found that interesting.)

Cha-ching Koh Chang

10/21/2017

Travel day today from Chiang Mai to Koh Chang via Bangkok and Trat airports, and a ferry ride.
Yesterday, I had paid for a cab to the airport, and specified a 5:30 am pickup. Imagine my surprise seeing the hotel front desk abandoned and dark when I walked down the stairs. Not an auspicious start. Turns out, the night guy was sleeping in the restaurant. Gave him my key, and the driver appeared promptly at 5:30. Things were looking up.
A mere twenty minutes later, I was through two security checkpoints, had gotten my boarding pass and was sipping a Black Canyon coffee at the gate. Things were going swimmingly, and Bangkok looked amazing from the air.

I flew on Bangkok Airways, and despite both flights being under 90 minutes gate to gate, both had real, actual, edible food. Stunning! No, I don't take food photos. Go see Instagram if that's what you want.
Trat is possibly the smallest airport I've used. The plane landed, stopped and turned around on the runway. It parked there, too. We all trundled off and boarded minivans to the coast and ferry. Along the way I met Illy and Emmy – and their parents. We had a good time no the ferry.

The trip from the debarkation point to the guest house is windy and beautiful. Heck, the whole island is. I can see hanging here for a week won't be difficult. Had a beer on my front porch, took a walk along the beach and scoped out the main drag. Now it's time for dinner.

No, I don't go for the Chicken Ass on a stick - I'm not that brave.
Spicy basil chicken and a beer on the beach. Nearly perfection.

Ciao Chang Mai

10/20/2017

I had a good time here in Chang Mai, and there is lots to do. Walking the old city, Chinatown, going by the university and the proximity to the parks and natural beauty, make it a great visit.
After the mountain bike debacle yesterday, today was a chill day. I even went to the dark side: an umbrella drink.

Getting up early tomorrow to travel to an island off the beaten path. Let the adventure continue!
But first, a few more phone snap photos from my wanderings. The restaurant across the street from my hotel, inside the Warorot Market, Chinatown, and the Pigeon Gate to the Old City.

In Which I Am Reminded I Haven't Done This In Decades, And I Wasn't Good Then Either

10/19/2017

After the less-than-whelming trek of yesterday, I, on a whim, signed up for a mountain bike ride for roday. Of course, me being me, I chose a challenging one. I'm guessing I'll be paying for it tomorrow.
The course was not just muddy for nearly all of it, it was rutted mud for a lot. Not more than 1-1/2 miles in, I pulled an endo on a 12" drop. Didn't damage anything but my pride and my camera that was in the pack. At least I didn't lose my phone.
Thirteen slick, muddy, rutted miles of 90% downhill later, I finally finished up.
I'm exhausted, dirty, sore and demoralized. Maybe I should start acting my age? I think I'll go have a beer.

Trek Adventure – In Two Acts

10/17/2017

Act One: in which a phone was lost, then found and a leech was found, then lost

Where to start? Today was an adventure day. Tomorrow promises to be adventurous as well, but I hope somewhat less than today.
The started innocuously enough: breakfast with the Aussies from yesterday, and packing up for the overnight trekking that I booked. I was supposed to be picked up at 9:15, and by 9:45, I was wondering if I'd been taken for a ride when I booked it.
I coerced the hotel front desk to call and ask. They were running about 45 minutes late. No worries.
We made a couple of tourist stops: a standard stop at a butterfly/ orchid farm, and the second was at a place where they turn elephant poop into paper. That was different.
Finally we (two 20-something teachers from Catalona, an overweight father and his young son from Denmark, and me) made it to where we were going to start. After a sketchy lunch at a roadside "bistro", we headed up into the forest.
This was what I came for. Hot, humid and every shade of green. Video and photos don't do it justice, though I tried.

About 1.5 miles in, I realized I no longer had my phone in my pocket. Sheer panic ensued. It's amazing and sad to think just how much I've come to rely on it - especially while traveling.
I had a good idea where I may have dropped it, and double-timed it back up the trail. Thankfully, and fortuitously, I spotted the black phone only partially hidden a couple of feet off the trail.
I grabbed it and headed back to where the rest of the group was waiting and we finished the trek with no further mishaps.
After reaching a "road", we walked another 400 meters to our stop for the night: a small village of about 12 people, 3 elephants, and a dozen well-fed and friendly dogs. I didn't count the chickens. After a beer, (solar powered fridge), we got the chance to feed and bathe the elephants. That was pretty dang cool. Damn, they're big! To get to the river, we slogged through a stagnant, shin-deep mud bog. And that's where I picked up the leech. My first encounter and hopefully my last. Yuck. Pulled it off, and it continued to bleed for a good 1/2 hour longer. Used a split cigarette to staunch it. Another first.
We then were introduced to our sleeping quarters, before getting dinner. The Hilton it isn't. The food was a decent green curry though.
It's 8:00 and I'm ready to crash. Tomorrow is another day, and another trek.

Act Two: Underwhelmed

Despite the emotional toll of phones and leeches from day one, overall, its wasn't quite the experience promised in the ads. The trek was pretty amazing, but it was only two miles. We spent more time in the Red Truck, and at tourist stops than anything else. That bugs me. I was probably a bit wrung out by the accommodations, despite one of the dozen (I counted) dogs choosing to sleep next to me, but still.
Day two was supposed to be more difficult hiking. It wasn't. It was a stroll up a road, and a short stint in a conga line to see a waterfall. As luck would have it, I led the line, so I got a decent photo before the others arrived and used it as a water slide.
we also did a 25 minute white water rafting event. Yep. 25 minutes. Yawn.
i was glad to make it back to a nice shower, dropping clothes at a laundry, and Khao Soi (my new favorite Thai dish) for dinner. And a more comfortable bed in a couple of hours.
Here's to the mountain biking I'm doing tomorrow to give me a thrilling adrenaline rush or even an elevated heart rate. Failing that, I'm looking at you, Koh Chang.

Capitalism Killed The Turtles

10/16/2017

At breakfast, I met an Australian family: Rupert and Rani and their kids Lachlan, Milla, Gil and Marlowe, who were on a month's-long trip around Southeast Asia. We sat around discussing the fate of the world and coming up with grand ideas about Lach making the big money in Sydney. I think I should get a cut after it's a ginormous success, since I was there at the brainstorming. But that's just me.
Also, I got to hear how Lach woke up one morning earlier this week with a brand new tattoo, and no recollection of the night, or even getting the tattoo.
My primary question remains unanswered: Daffy Duck?

Breakfast was actually a quite good buffet that was included in the cost of the room. And the coffee was outstanding.
We went our separate ways, and I did my usual walkabout, randomly canvassing hither and yon about town. This time I hit a few wats.

I was making my way back toward the hotel, when I ran into Rupert and the young boys, going for hot chocolate.
(Side note: hot chocolate?! Here? In the heat?) we chatted and Rupert invited me to join them on a trek to Chinatown to partake in a little eco-guerrilla action to free baby turtles destined for the cook pot. Apparently, Rani is an eco-warrior with a side job.
As we made our way to where they are sold – along with live eels, fish and toads – we stopped several times to shop for hats, and clothes.

Unfortunately, by the time we made our way to the bazaar, the turtles were gone, likely already in the broth. Rupert made the (probably inaccurate, but we're going with it anyway) point that if we hadn't stopped to shop, the turtles would have still been there to loose into the river. Given that the prime impetus for the Great Chiang Mai Turtle Emancipation of 2017 was Rani and she was the person wanting to stop 'n shop, the potential irony meter twitched large.
The rest of the day was a humdrum melange of beers, massage and Panang curry. Yawn.

Chiangmai? Oh my!

10/15/2017

Flying from Bangkok to Chiangmai is similar to flying from Reno to Las Vegas: take off, an hour in the air, and *boom* you're there. For only $23.

Touch down to check-in at Vieng Mantra was about 30 minutes and a $3 cab ride. It's in the old city, which is a Warren of narrow, winding "streets", liberally sprinkled with hostels, homestays, bars, restaurants, laundries, and ubiquitous massage joints. And young people from around the world.
Mostly male, mostly in their 20s, mostly rather grubby. I imagine they are easily living on less than $10/day here.
My hotel is a nice one - with a pool:

So that's my big expense: $45/night. After that kabobs and satay are a quarter a pop. Phad Thai under a dollar. My biggest non-hotel item was a beer. I (over)paid $4 for a locally brewed IPA. It wasn't great and at almost 4x the cost of a Chang, Leo or Singha, it was a one-and-done.

I was advised to try the Khao Soi when I got here, and it was a spot on recommendation. It's a northern Thailand speciality similar to Tom Gai soup, but subtly different and absolutely delicious.
Some photos I took while wandering:

It was at night that it got big though. Sunday nights is a street market, just south of the hotel. I didn't realize it was so close – or so large. Hundreds of vendors, selling , well, everything. Mango wood is beautiful, and if I knew anyone who wanted a silk scarf, well, they were $3.
I didn't buy anything, but was tempted by a $6 mango wood bowl.
Thousands of people wander the stalls. Coaches bring in tourists from other hotels, buskers busk, and it all was pleasant, though overwhelming to a non-shopper like me.

Today is a day of looking more. And eating more. Probably get another massage, too. At 300 baht for an hour for the more expensive ones, it's difficult to say no to one every day.

Soft Landing

10/14/2017

I had a soft landing here in Bangkok: I knew Matt and Sophie who I stayed with and who gave me pointers – in English – on the hows, whats, whys and wheres of getting around and doing things. It was a great way to get my feet wet (not including flooded streets), and build some schema to hang my experiences upon. But now, it's time for me to take off solo, much like taking off the training wheels.

I learned quite a bit, and am far less anxious about stuff.

Matt, Sophie and me, in a BTT station

On the food front, Bangkok has an amazing smorgasbord of offerings – nearly all deliverable for nearly nothing via Food Panda.

So far, I've had Thai, Italian, Vietnamese, Indian, and a variety of baked goods ranging from bagels and cream cheese to Some Kind Of Bread™. I've had mangoes, papaya and pineapple from street vendors, and dragon fruit and pomelos at the apartment; several different Thai beers, Australian beers, Japanese beer and (accidentally) American beer. But to my credit, I'd never had it before, and it was rather tasty, anyway.

Now, it's time to head out and explore more. Catch ya later in Chiangmai, depending on how good the connectivity is, of course.

I'll Sleep When I'm Dead

10/13/2017

It's currently 3:30 in the morning. Yeah, I'm up and it's not jet lag. A monster storm rolled through about an hour ago with lightning and thunder enough to wake even a heavy sleeper, and I'm not one of those. To make it more fun, it's difficult for me to fall back asleep, once I wake.

So, I took a video out the window. I missed the best of it, since I was simply lying in bed, enjoying the storm at that point.

Not a great vid, but not terrible. I took a still looking the other way too. Despite the fuzziness, you can see the wake the car is throwing up; the street is flooded.

Today (yesterday?) was quiet. Tomorrow (today?) I'm hanging with Sophie and prepping to go to Chiangmai on Sunday. Matt has a work crisis to deal with. Sucker.